女性時尚雜誌服飾再現的編輯策略研究

Abstract

在台灣出版市場中，女性時尚雜誌無論在銷售量及讀者閱讀率，都有耀眼的成績。不僅本土自製的雜誌紛紛成立，也吸引歐美、日本的出版商進駐。這些女性時尚雜誌除了帶來快速的服飾時尚資訊，同時也影響各種服飾風格的流行。在服飾內容的呈現上，女性時尚雜誌編輯扮演關鍵的角色，但回顧台灣目前的女性時尚雜誌研究大多從商業行銷或雜誌文本內容的面向切入，嚴重忽略了編輯產製面的探究。 本研究目的在於瞭解女性時尚雜誌編輯對服飾單元的決策情形與影響因素，解析編輯人員決定服飾單元時考慮的面向。藉由爬梳女性時尚雜誌、服飾再現與編輯人員決策等相關研究文獻，並輔以深度訪談臺灣女性時尚雜誌共11位編輯人員，試圖探討在女性時尚雜誌的編輯過程中，為何某些服飾商品會被挑選出來？而這些服飾商品如何被建構並再現於服飾單元裡，透過編輯手法強調並凸顯特定的服飾內容？。 訪談的資料分析顯示，雜誌內文與廣告同為重要的決策內容，雜誌編輯主要的目標策略，是利用差異化的媒體素材塑造出不同的風格形象，藉以區隔出雜誌定位以及吸引讀者與廣告客戶。研究發現，雜誌編輯以服飾為再現的主體，分為實用與展示兩種迥異的服飾訴求，在內容的報導上，傾向非歐美即日韓的流行文化，雜誌內文的廣告性質也越趨明顯。從受訪者的回應顯示，編輯個人的專業與偏好，在決策的過程中，會遭遇到例行作業的組織規範，還有組織成員的干涉。此外，媒體的素材來源以及實體市場與讀者的接受度，都是影響服飾再現決策的重要因素。Women's fashion magazine has been got the great success in publishing market of Taiwan for a long time. More and more International magazine publishers founded Chinese Women's fashion magazine in Taiwan which also brings the cross-cultural popular information. In Women's fashion magazine, clothing and accessories are not only the most important editing material but also occupy a large number of pages. On the other hand, the decision making by magazine editor plays an important in the topic of clothing and accessories. Researches about Women's fashion magazine in Taiwan mostly focus on market performance, and the notion of production are ignored. This study applied a methodology of qualitative in-depth interview with 11 editorial staff of women's fashion magazine, tried to find out the process of editing and the decision making process and the decisions made. Data analysis shows that the text and advertisement both are play important role in editor's decision-making. The main strategy is making use of differential media materials to create the market segmentation and attract more readers and advertisers. The study found that editor mainly uses exhibiting and practical two types of advertising appeals. More specifically, mainstream content tend to focus on either Europe, America or Japan& South Korea. Data shows that editor's professional competency and personal preferences were confronted with a list of organizational norms and values. Furthermore, media resources and readers acceptance are key factors to affect represented strategy of clothing contents.