臺灣飲食文學中的親職書寫研究

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2025

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自 1999 年林文月的《飲膳札記》出版以來,飲食文學的創作如雨後春筍般 蓬勃發展,至今已趨成熟。飲食關乎著每個人的日常生活,寄託人們生命中的 記憶與情感,極具珍視價值。為了能讓飲食文學的圖譜拼湊的更完整,本論文 旨在將飲食文學聚焦於親職書寫,並分為母職書寫、父職書寫及多元家庭書寫 三類型,分析飲食在各類親職書寫中的面貌及意義。此外,也將探究母職書寫 及父職書寫在性別意識型態上所蘊含的問題,以及飲食文學從過去到現在的書 寫變化,以期提供更全面的研究視角。在前人的研究基礎下,第二章母職書寫將分為「家常菜中的母愛」及「懷鄉憶舊的常調」兩部分,書寫母親為孩子親手烹調的用心,以及對過去美好飲食經驗的追憶。其中,在懷鄉憶舊的部分,將透過感官分析,將親情、飲食與五感做結合。在時代變遷下,現代家庭中的掌廚者不再僅限於女性,飲食文學的書寫也從母職書寫逐漸擴展到父職書寫。因此,第三章將以父職角度出發,探究男性作家為孩子烹飪的心情點滴,並針對父職文本中不同的書寫型態進行虛實比較。隨著觀念的開放,臺灣人口的組成也歷經許多轉變,家庭的組成及樣貌也愈加多元。除了母職及父職書寫之外,另一個重要的研究面向即是多元家庭書寫。第四章將針對目前尚未被深入考掘的多元家庭飲食進行分析,聚焦於新移民女性家庭與同志家庭的飲食書寫,以展現更多樣化的飲食文學面貌。在飲食文學中,母職書寫佔多數,父職書寫則較欠缺,因此第五章將針對親職書寫中的性別意識進行分析,探究其差異之因,並以歷時性研究法探查飲食文本至今的書寫變化。
Since the publication of Lin Wenyue's Notes on Diet in 1999, gastro literature has flourished and matured significantly. Food is integral to everyone’s daily life, carrying memories and emotions that are deeply cherished. To create a more comprehensive picture of gastro literature, this thesis focuses on parental writing within gastro literature, categorizing it into three types: maternal writing, paternal writing, and diverse family writing. It analyzes the role and significance of food within these different types of parental writing. Additionally, the thesis will explore issues of gender consciousness embedded in maternal and paternal narratives, as well as the evolution of gastro literature from past to present, aiming to provide a more comprehensive research perspective.Building on previous research, Chapter 2 on maternal writing will be divided into two sections:"Motherly Love in Home-cooked Dishes" and "Nostalgic Longing." This chapter will explore a mother’s care in preparing meals for her children and reflect on past positive dining experiences. In the section on nostalgia, sensory analysis will be used to integrate familial affection, food, and the five senses. With societal changes, the role of the family cook is no longer limited to women, and gastro literature has gradually expanded from maternal to paternal narratives. Therefore, Chapter 3 willadopt a paternal perspective, examining male writers' experiences and emotions in cooking for their children and comparing different styles within paternal texts. As perspectives have broadened, Taiwan's population structure has also undergone many changes, resulting in increasingly diverse family compositions and forms. In addition to maternal and paternal writing, another important research focus is diverse family writing. Chapter 4 will analyze the relatively unexplored area of gastro literature within diverse families, centering on the food narratives of immigrant women and LGBTQ+ families, to present a more varied perspective of gastro literature. In gastro literature, maternal writing is predominant, while paternal writing is comparatively scarce. Therefore, Chapter 5 will analyze the gender consciousness within parental writing, exploring the reasons behind these differences and using a diachronic research approach to examine the evolution of food literature up to the present.

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飲食文學, 母職書寫, 父職書寫, 多元家庭, 性別意識, Gastro literature, Maternal writing, Paternal writing, Diverse families, Gender consciousness

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